La culture des houblons ⇒ La petite houblonnière d’Erquelinnes

[particules]

En allant posté les houblons à Jeumont (59460), je suis passé devant la petite houblonnière d’Erquelinnes.
Voici quelque photos.

Vue d’ensemble




Fixation au sommet des perches


Espacement des plants, entre 60 et 70 cm


Les plants déjà bien avancés pour la saison

[boris]

Merci Roland pour ces jolies photos,

Quelques renseignement a glaner si tu retourne là-bas :

- espacement des lignes ?
- diamètre des poteaux ?
- hauteur des poteaux ?
- espacement des poteaux ?
- nature du câble (câble ? fil de fer ?)
- diamètre du câble ?
- comment est fixé le câble au sol ? (bloc de béton ?)

Il n'y a pas encore les fils tuteurs mais :

- ils sont en quoi ? ficelle ? fil de fer ?
- en bas ils tiennent comment ? piqué ?


Boris

[brasseriemontoise]

Je connais le brasseur de brasserie d'erquelinnes (http://www.brasserie-brootcoorens-erquelinnes.be/" target="_blank)
Il brasse également en tank à lait de 10hl. Très sympa et toujours de l'ambiance lors des brassin ou mise en bouteilles. Sa production de houblon (juste du Golding) lui permet a peine de tenir son année.

JP

[particules]

Salut J-P, tu peux prendre contact avec lui et lui demander les renseignements que Boris demande.

[brasseriemontoise]

De mes souvenirs :

- espacement des lignes ? 1,5m
- diamètre des poteaux ? 12 à 15 cm
- hauteur des poteaux ? 5m (+2m dans le sol)
- espacement des poteaux ? 4 m
- nature du câble (câble ? fil de fer ?) , fil de fer
- diamètre du câble ? ???
- comment est fixé le câble au sol ? (bloc de béton ?). simple piquet dans le sol

Il n'y a pas encore les fils tuteurs mais :

- ils sont en quoi ? ficelle ? fil de fer ? peux importe... fil de fer, nilon,...
- en bas ils tiennent comment ? piqué ? simple piquet dans le sol

[particules]

Voilà les renseignements, Monsieur Alain Brootcoorens a eu la gentillesse de me les communiquer.

-espacement des lignes ? +-1,50m
-espacement des plants ? +-1m
- diamètre des poteaux ? 30cm
- hauteur des poteaux ? 8m
- espacement des poteaux ? 10m
- nature du câble (câble ? fil de fer ?) acier galvanisé
- diamètre du câble ? 8mm
- comment est fixé le câble au sol ? (bloc de béton ?) bloc de béton à 2m de profondeur

Il n'y a pas encore les fils tuteurs mais :

- ils sont en quoi ? ficelle ? fil de fer ? Corde en Nylon spécial
- en bas ils tiennent comment ? piqué ? crochet en acier (style fer à béton)

Ci-dessous l’annonce de la prochaine fête du houblon.



A+ Roland

[Michel08]

Ci-dessous l’annonce de la prochaine fête du houblon.


A+ Roland

Bonjour.

J'y suis allé en 2006 à cette fête. C'est vraiment très bien.

Michel

[dany06hd]

personne ne connaîtrait la marque du bois le modèle et l'année de fabrication ?

[boris]

personne ne connaîtrait la marque du bois le modèle et l'année de fabrication ?

Tu es moqueur Dany, moi je remercie beaucoup Roland, qui se casse la tête non seulement a dégoter des plans, mais en plus à fournir tous les trucs et astuces pour la houblonnière.

Évidement, le forum est "amateur", mais cela n'empêche pas un certain nombre de "pro" de le trouver intéressant et d'y participer, donc si tu as 4 plans de houblon au fond du jardin, tu te fou du diamètre des câbles, par contre quand tu en as 300 ou 400, tu commence à y réfléchir, et là un gars comme Roland deviens un excellant "conseillé spécial".

Merci Roland. Et Dany06, moi c'est Boris04, donc si tu passe par le Haut-Verdon un jour, viens discuter de l'année du bois autour d'une mousse...

Boris

[dany06hd]

zut ! j'ai été démasqué !
pour l'invit avec plaisir boris. si tu descends dans le sud tu seras le bienvenu aussi.
en effet je ne fais pousser que 5 pieds de houblon...comment t'as deviné ?
au fait si t'as un tuyau pour conserver les grappes...

j'ai trouvé ça en anglais si ça peut intérresser qqun:

Hop Rhizomes - Planting & Growing

The best way to start growing your own hops is by transplanting hop rhizomes (or cuttings) in the spring when they can be shipped and stored well. We recommend planting at least 2 rhizomes. Commercially, growers will plant up to 5 rhizomes per hill.

Hops can be grown at almost anywhere or in any type of soil; however, they fair better in rich alluvial or sandy loom soil. They are very hardy plants but the hill they are planted in needs to be well cultivated to encourage proper drainage. They need plenty of water and food that will allow them to grow up to 1' per day, although not typically the first year. Plant the rhizomes were they will receive plenty of summer sun. They can tolerate temperatures in the 100's and below freezing. Hops can tolerate elevations up to 7000'; however, elevations below 3000' encourage more vigorous growth.

Hops will grow to 20' in length during the first year. Therefore, plant the rhizomes with a plan for trellising your hops, much like a grape vine possibly. Lay your hills out at least 7' feet apart. Hops shoots can be trained to grow along guide wires, fences, heavy twine and a number of other elevating ideas; but elevate them so they will be easier to harvest.

1) Refrigerate your rhizomes until the soil is ready for planting.

2) Choose a southern exposure, if possible. An east or west exposure is acceptable but the hops will not grow as vigorously.

3) Hops prefer light textured, well drained soil with a pH of 6.0-8.0. If drainage is a problem, cultivate a mound for the planting. Definitely incorporate some organic matter such as manue or grass clippings into the soil, this is also a good time to add some slow release fertilizer such as cottonseed meal, bone meal, rock phosphate, oyster shell, etc.

4) Soak the rhizomes in warm water (approximately 80 degrees) for 1 hour prior to planting. Powdered root stimulates added to the water for soaking of the rhizomes and used during the planting process will bring the shouts out of the ground quicker.

5) Plant the rhizomes vertically with the buds pointing up or horizontally about 2 inches below the soil level.

6) Plant mixed varieties at least 5 feet apart. Identical varieties can be planted 3 feet apart.

7) First year hops have a minimal root system, therefore the soil should not be allowed to dry completely. Mulching the soil surface with some form of organic matter does wonders in conserving moisture as well as controlling weeds.

When the vines are about one foot long, select 2-3 strong vines and wrap them clockwise around a support system. This can either be a trellis, or simply a tall pole or strong twine coming down the side of your house.

In future years, the earliest shoots should be pruned off in favor of training up the hardy second growth. After the main vines have been established, all subsequent vines should be removed from around the base of the hop.

Always use strong twine because the vine can become quite heavy. Secure the taut twine to a stake at the have of the mound


Hop Rhizomes - Harvest & Drying

The harvest date will vary with variety and location but will become more evident as you gain experience as a grower. At maturity, the hops’ aroma is at its peak and can be measured by crushing the cone and smelling it. The yellow lupulin glands in the cone become much more evident and plump looking when magnified. The cone at maturity will develop a drier, papery feel along with a lightening in color. Squeeze the cones as they develop and you will notice they become more light and resilient rather than green and hard. Your harvest date will most likely be similar to the harvest date in the Pacific Northwest which begins the middle of August and continues until the middle of September.



Early Harvest:
Hallertauer, Tettnang, Fuggle



Late Harvest:
Cascade, Northern Brewer.



At harvest, it is easiest to cut the vine about 2-3 feet from the base of the mound and place the entire vine in an accessible place where the cones can be picked, rather than working off a ladder.

Drying can be done in a food dehydrator, custom made hop dryer, well vented oven, or air dried. If you use a dryer, good air flow is important and temperature should not exceed 140 degrees. Cooler temperatures take longer but a better quality hop is obtained. Under dry weather conditions, take a screen off your house and spread the hops around. Place the screen in the shade and support both ends off the ground. This is best achieved in a well vented area protected from strong wind. Fluff the cones daily so moist inner cones are brought to the outside of the pile. If the pile isn’t too thick they will dry in around 3 days. The hops are dry when the strigs, the inner stems of the cones, are brittle and break rather than bend. Pack hops into a heavy plastic bag or sealable container and keep frozen until used.



Disease & Pest

The primary disease in hops is downy mildew, which is characterized by stunted, yellow shoots with the leaves turning yellow then black with spores in severe cases. Some varieties are more susceptible than others and it is more of a problem in moist spring climates as spores need free water to germinate. Downy mildew can b controlled by spraying a fungicide such as Cocide.

Insect pests are spider mites and aphids. Mites in hot, dry weather and aphids in cool weather. Spider mites can often be controlled by dusting with diatomaceous earth or commercial pesticide. Aphids should be sprayed with a soap spray or pesticide such as malithion.